Monday, 14 June 2010

Hollow Echoes

The Singapore Skyline v2Image via Wikipedia
This is the final week in our condo and with all the boxes gone the place has a hollow echo.  I have never tired of looking out our lounge window at the changing Singapore skyline, with its steady procession of cranes as new buildings rise from their foundations.

I have watched the tropical storms come and go and felt the building reverberate to the sound of the thunder.

The night view is particularly attractive with the various coloured lights from the high rises much in evidence.

Just this morning I watched a large raptor ride the the thermals above Margaret Drive as it searched for prey hundreds of feet below.

These past three and a half years have been my first experience of apartment living. While I have enjoyed the change, it is fair to say that my wife has regarded it as a form of penal servitude and longs for the quietness of New Zealand. She is a Singaporean and has not enjoyed coming back whereas I have always felt a strong affinity to Singapore, going back to the 1980's when I first  visited.

Straying from the Flock: Travels in New ZealandTo put it into context, I doubt I would enjoy going back to the town of my birth to live either.  Not that there is anything wrong with Waitara I hasten to add, it is just that we have nothing in common and the childhood memories are largely of wild west coast beaches and burning black sand in the heat of summer.  I have moved on.

The BBC World Service is broadcasting in the background as I write this.  What a marvelous thing quality radio journalism is.  It has keep us connected with the wide world during our time here; in a way that local media simply does not.

I only hope that we can get the World Service in New Zealand.  I recall it was privately sponsored by a wealthy NZ businessman several years ago but I am not sure if the service still exists?  There is a web site which says that the service still exists on 810 AM so here's hoping.

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Sunday, 13 June 2010

The Coming Storm

The Coming Storm   ................................................   Roger Smith  June  2010

Saturday, 12 June 2010

Another Sixties Icon Passes On

Crispian St. Peters, a British pop singer of the ’60s best known for his buoyant hit “Pied Piper” and his soulful version of “You Were on My Mind,” has died at his home in Swanley, Kent, England. He was 71.

Friday, 11 June 2010

Football Fever

Korean fans during 2006 World Cup SoccerImage by iccsports via Flickr
There is somewhat of a malaise inflicting Singapore, indeed the whole of Asia.

World Cup fever has struck even the most balanced individuals and there  appear to be only a few exceptions.  I am one of the latter as I have not mortgaged my condo to take out a premium cable package with Singtel or Starhub.

I  have very little interest in soccer as most of the players seem to spend inordinate amounts of time writhing of the ground and faking injuries trying to incur a penalty. 

The local S League takes this masquerade one step further with players being carried off on stretchers at regular intervals, only to rise Lazarus-like as they reach the sidelines.

Give me a real man's game anytime.  Rugby is the code I and most New Zealanders were brought up with and it the one that I still follow.  The 'real' world cup will take place next year in New Zealand.
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Wednesday, 9 June 2010

Slashed Fares, Red Elbows And Tagged Trains

Nat King Cole
To quote the late Nat King Cole, "Unforgettable" or perhaps it should be "Unbelievable"!

Having just spent nearly $S1,800 for a one way ticket from Singapore to Auckland I read in the NZ Herald online today that Jet Star is going to launch a direct Auckland / Singapore service and will be offering promotional fares set at $NZ100.

I would be quite happy to forgo the in-flight meal and pay for my own cheese and crackers en-route if I could save $1,000.

The only fly in the ointment is that they have yet to secure regulatory approval but one would hope that this was forthcoming.  It will be interesting to see what Singapore Airlines' response will be.

Also occupying Singaporean's minds this week is the revelation that some mindless twits broke into the MRT train yards and graffiti bombed one of the trains (video below).  It turns out it was a Swiss software consultant and a Briton (who has high tailed it to Hong Kong) who carried out the dastardly deed.

What at first glance may seem to be a stupid piece of vandalism has more sinister overtones as it has exposed lax security at the depot.  The threat of bombing is very real and the fact that two individuals could so effortlessly break into the depot yard has not pleased the authorities in the least.

Such acts normally carry a caning sentence in Singapore.  An American by the name of Michael Fay was sentenced in 1994 for a similar spate of vandalism and received four strokes of the rattan cane for his troubles.

There is a bizarre footnote to this story.  It took two days for someone to report the incident.  Reportedly, the MRT staff mistook the vandalism for commercial advertising, no doubt with the recent Singtel post box graffiti still etched into their conscience.

And finally for shear hard luck comes the story of the woman who was walking past the Istana and had a tree fall on her. She is said to be suffering from "redness of the elbow".
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Today's Print

If Matisse designed Orchard Road

Monday, 7 June 2010

Bubble, Bubble, Toil And Packing

The Battle Box, Underground Far East Command C...
There is an all pervasive smell of cardboard cartons around our condo, mixed with the distinctiove odour of plastic bubble wrap gently simmering in the tropical sun.

This hopefully will be our final day of packing (which we are personally undertaking) and the removal company arrives on Friday to pack out my PC and take away the consignment.

Tomorrow I unplug this PC and resort to using my laptop.  Hopefully the transition will be relatively painless but it will mean fewer blog posts until the last week of June when we are in our temporary Singapore digs, at Fort Canning Lodge.

While we are staying there I hope to take a wander on the Fort Canning hill to visit the Battlebox complex (pictured) which was the HQ for the Malaya High Command.

It is some 9 metres underground.  The former British Far East Command Centre in the Second World War years was built in 1926 and is now being converted into a hotel.

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Friday, 4 June 2010

PR No More

Skyline of Auckland, New Zealand, from Westhav...
I confess to feeling a little glum this this morning.

'Glum' is a very descriptive word and the sound of it conveys a numbness of spirit.

Yesterday our packing boxes arrived and so we commenced wrapping up the more precious items for their return journey to New Zealand next month.

Today I visited the ICA building and handed back my PR.

Some of my Singaporean colleagues find it a little strange that I should do so, but I believe that it is a matter of principle to relinquish permanent residency status if one is leaving the country for good. That way someone else will have a chance to enjoy Singapore, hopefully as much as I have during my time here.

Being granted PR status when I first arrived in 2006 meant a lot to me and it still does.

I came not to lead an expatriate lifestyle but to learn from the country and to contribute. I would like to think that I have done both.

So I now a "visitor" to Singapore with a month's visa. My blue plastic IC that was my passport (literally)to so many benefits has been handed back.

One month from today we will have arrived back in Auckland.

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Thursday, 3 June 2010

Hot Diggety Dog

Just when you thought the age of mass consumerism had peeked, along comes a product that is so profoundly useless it almost defies definition.

Introducing the Ocotdog Frankfurter Converter (I kid you not!).

This mindless piece of plastic converts a perfectly good frankfurter sausage into something grey with splayed 'legs' that straddles your plate.

I marvel at man's ingenuity; imagine the hours of design process that went into this marvel of creativity.

It is apparently is not a new device, so there must be a factory in China still churning them out.

As an aside, I also learnt that hot dogs are identified as a health problem for young children by John Hopkins University. Evidently they choke on them. Imagine what they will do with the Octodog.

Whole design departments address the American fixation with this humble weiner as the Hot Dog Redesign Exploration (below) bears testament,

Why would anyone in their right mind want to eat something that looked like this?

Franfurter sausage buns are popular in Singapore although most a made with chicken sausages to meet halal standards and appeal to the Malay market.

If you want to sample good sausages at a reasonable price in Singapore, try Marche's restaurant in the 313@Somerset mall in Orchard Road.

One final word about useless contraptions that are associated with 'bangers'.  Try the iPhone Sausage Stylus.

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Tuesday, 1 June 2010

Dawson Road Now And Then

Strathmore Avenue / Dawson Road Now .................................... Roger Smith 2010

Dawson Road as it used to be - pre 1942

We walk down Strathmore Avenue to Dawson Road, then onwards to our NTUC supermarket at Dawsons Place

Dawson Road used to an area of Atap houses inhabited by hundreds of Hokkien and Teochew who grew vegetables and fruit, as well as raising pigs and chickens.

Later the same area was the site of the Buller camp run by the British military.

In 1942 an Indian POW, John Baptist Crasta, described Buller Camp as being on the tip of a small hill -  a quiet place admist trees.  It was evacuated ahead of the advancing Japanese on February 12th of that year.

On June 12th this same solder moved back to Buller camp under the orders of the Japanese.  The camp became known for its anti INA (Indian National Army) attitude. The image is of INA prisoners in Singapore.

Buller Camp was disdestablished in 1953
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A Bird In The Hand

Eurasian Tree Sparrow (Passer montanus malacce...
Every morning, just after the break of dawn, the crows navigate their way down the MRT line from their city roost to the heartland.

They are dark, silent birds at this hour; avian stealth bombers heading out on a predefined mission.  At this hour too the volume of rail traffic is reduced although later a train comes at three minute intervals, packed full of commuters.

I am not sure that I expected so many "European species" of fauna when I arrived here.  It was a revelation to discover crows, , sparrows, squirrels and swallows but this was because of my own naive perception that such species did not exist in the tropics..

A Naturalist's Guide to the Birds of Malaysia and Singapore: including Sabah & SarawakThe word 'tropics' conjures up colourful butterflies, larger than life insects, spiders and lizards.  These are certainly here in abundance as is the verdant foliage of the fast growing tropical plants; red-trunked palms, large shade trees and the orchids of every hue.

According to Wikipedia Singapore has 60 species of mammals, 365 species of birds, 107 species of reptiles, and 28 species of amphibians.  It is estimated that some 11% of species are introduced including the Rock Pigeon, House Crow, Javan Myna and Eurasian Tree sparrow.  They have adapted so well to their new environment that they consistently rank in the top 20 of any avian census.

I too have adapted well to my Singapore environment but my time here is coming to and end and so tomorrow I pack away my PC, in preparation for my return to my first winter in four years - not a happy thought!

With the aid of my recently of my recently purchased laptop I hope to add a few more entries to this epistle before we leave Singapore at the beginning of July.
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Monday, 31 May 2010

Today's Print

St Andrews Before The Storm................................................................................ Roger Smith  May 2010
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Sunday, 30 May 2010

Of Mangoes And Thunderbolts

Bill Bryson at Symphony Space
I don't really count myself as superstitious although I have been known to have the lucky number of 8 about my person when trying to better the odds.

Nor do I believe in most of the old Cantonese tales associated with food, particularly those that decry the consumption of raw fruit and vegetables in the fear that they may produce 'wind'.

If I recall correctly from boarding school days it was the consumption of cooked cabbage that produced this intestinal malfunction.

The sorry sight of the old mango tree beside the Queenstown MRT therefore had no bearing upon my mood.  One of its boughs, which had once sported eight ripening fruit,  had broken under the weight of the heavy crop and was blocking the drain that it had overhung.

It belongs to the TrueWay Presbyterian church which is on the site but they never seem to crop it.

The Life and Times of the Thunderbolt Kid: A Memoir
I was making my final Sunday pilgrimage to the Queenstown Public Library where I have spent many happy hours in the reference section on the second floor.

Quite by chance I happened across Bill Bryson's memoir The Life and Times of the Thunderbolt Kid (click on cover image right).

This is one of the funniest pieces of writing I have read for some time and I had to stifle my sobs of inner laughter to maintain the quite sanctity of the building. Even then the leather sofa on which I sat shook with my mirth.

I know Bryson from his travel writing but his description of his childhood in the 1950's was extemely enjoyable and a pointed commentary of the consumer society of the time.

It somehow seemed fitting that I should end my final library visit  in such a jovial mood, even though I am not one to believe in omens.

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Thursday, 27 May 2010


In the boiled bone
miasma of the morning
the ochre brown of a cockroach
its dead legs spread towards the sky
and the soil
a root claw holding back results of rain

The two glazed elephants
are standing guard
next to the purple of a bougainvillea
while nearby a man with sinewed legs
searches for life
in the dry canal

Roger Smith May 27, 2010

Wednesday, 26 May 2010

Airport Violations

Changi AirportChangi. Image by crawl_ray via Flickr
I am not a huge fan of travel statistics but a story in this week's Jakarta Post made for interesting reading.

Unlike Changi airport, Jakarta's Soekarno-Hatta International is a somewhat jaded cluster of buildings.

While it would be difficult to find an orchid out of place in Singapore, Indonesia's equivalent recorded a staggering 19,391 violations of public order in 2009.

Amongst them:

7,829 street vendors
407 illegal porters
1,392 shoe polishers
1,663 ticket scalpers
1,177 drivers of cars that had their wheels clamped
6,169 illegal taxis
(and the statistic I like best) 227 Scavengers

The authorities also confiscated 11 stoves, 15 mobile phone vouchers, 9 counterfeit banknotes and 17 motorcycles.

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Tuesday, 25 May 2010

Just Four Years Old

I learn to play drums like this at age 13.  This little guy at 4 years old is just fantastic and look how much he is enjoying himself.

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Thinking Strategically

The Tanjong Pagar railway station.Yesterday the Singaporean PM and his Malaysian counterpart signed an important agreement.
Since the separation from Malaysia more than forty years ago that country has retained a sovereign presence in the heart of Singapore.  They own the Railway station and track that snakes its way through Singapore.  It is still gazetted as the Johor Bahru station in Malaysia

When Mathatir was in power his jaundiced view of Singapore and the world meant that this was never going to be resolved.  I am anticipating he will snipe away from the sidelines about this agreement and try to stir up trouble.

What was demonstrated yesterday was political maturity and  willingness to compromise for the benefit of all parties.

There will be a new railway terminus at Woodlands and the equally good news is that the rather charming (if somewhat dilapidated) railway station at Tanjong Pagar will be retained and conserved as a heritage building.  A new rapid transit system will link Singapore and Johor Bahru by 2018.

The Singapore-Johor causeway, spanning across ...On the same day it was announced by Lee Hsien Loong that the water treatment station at Sungei in JB will be returned to the Malaysians when its lease runs out next year.

In the 1960's Singapore lived under constant threats of having their water supply cut off but latter developments such as the Marina Bay barrage and technologies such as NeWater treatment have largely negated this threat of such political blackmail.  The reliance on Sungei is not what it once was.

Singapore plans strategically for its longevity as a nation.  Having no natural resources of its own, other than people, it is reliant on others for the basics of life such as food and water.  Having largely addressed the water issue it also looks to broaden the supply chain for its food supply.

It has plans to invest heavily in a large faming and food processing food zone in North East China and if this comes to pass much of its meat and vegetables will come from this source in the future.

This development is only in the study phase but if it comes to pass fifteen years from now Singapore will no longer be beholden to volatile countries such as Indonesia for its meat supply.
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Sunday, 23 May 2010

Singapore Likes and Dislikes

Things I like
Thinks I dislike
  • The roar of tropical rains
  • The detonation of a thunderclap
  • The scent of pandan
  • The MRT after the morning rush
  • No winters
  • Changi airport
  • The Singaporean spirit of giving
  • The Asian Civilisation Museum
  • The friendliness of the bus drivers on the 111 route
  • The greening of Singapore
  • The verdant growth and colour of the tropics
  • Rainbow mangoes and pisang manis (bananas)
  • The Queenstown Library
  • Chendol
  • Malay food
  • Old Chung Kee curry puffs
  • Ah Teck Bao
  • High Speed unlimited broadband at cheap prices
  • A $1 Walls icecream
  • Durian and Mangosteen
  • The sound of a professional pianist practising in my condo
  • The many good Singaporean friends I have made in my time here
  • The way the country is governed
  • Being able to walk safely on the streets as any hour of the day or night 
  • The Botanic Gardens
  • Marks and Spencers because they stock my sizes
  • Being able to buy good luggage bags at reasonable prices
  • Money changers
  • Being in Singapore during a financial meltdown
  • Lunching in the White Dog cafe at Vivio City
  • Cruising on Superstar Virgo to Phuket and Penang
  • Satay Bee Hoon at Redhill Food centre
  • The kite flying at Marine Parade
  • The East Coast seafood restaurants
  • Cheap drycleaning
  • The Old Ford Factory exhibit
  • The wide variety of fruit and vegetables from many countries
  • Century eggs with sliced ginger
  • Ipoh Pomelo
  • Waiting at a bus stop on a humid morning
  • Litter advertising on poles
  • Attempts by new immigrant hawkers to cook classic Singapore dishes
  • The MRT during the morning rush
  • The energy sapping heat with little respite
  • Spitting in the street
  • Second hand smoke inhalation
  • Begging
  • False Monks
  • Fundamentalist religions taking advantage of the weak and disadvantaged
  • Being pushed off the pavement by inconsiderate pedestrians
  • The Mediacorp free to air channels for their limited and amateurish programmes
  • Highrise littering
  • Smelly drains
  • Cockroaches of every size and hue
  • Being asked to pay $100 for the privilege of going into the new casinos and lose another $100
  • Increasing amounts of rubbish in the streets
  • Ang Mo who make no effort to mingle and learn the local culture
  • Not being able to fit any of the local clothing or shoe sizes
  • The bureaucracy and service at the local banks
  • Ditto for Singtel
  • The cost of freight back to New Zealand
  • Singapore Airlines one way fare costs
  • Highly sugared local bread
  • Indonesian 'haze' when it blankets Singapore
  • Singapore Idol
  • Maids scavenging through the condo rubbish bins
  • The Japanese habit of preparing and eating seafood when it is still alive
  • 3 in1 coffee

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Things I like About Singapore #1

There are many things that I have enjoyed during my time living here and over the next month I shall from time to time record those that have stood out for me.

Starting with the more mundane, I must sing the praises of a local dessert - Chendol (pronounced "chen do").

As with most things that are pleasurable, copious consumption of this treat would without doubt be ruinous to health.  It is rich in both coconut and cane sugar.

The biliously green 'worms' which adorn the creation are green bean flour strips.  It has shaved ice as a base and also contains cooked red beans.  It is the pandan leaf that provides the distinctive under taste.

Some claim that this dish, which is also known as 'cendol', originated in Thailand which may well be true.

The second thing that has impressed me has been the willingness of many Singaporeans to support good causes.  Every weekend there is a roster of school children in the malls or thronging Orchard Road collecting for some charity or other.

But charity does not remain at home and yesterday in the Straits Times there was a rare piece of very good photojournalism. This traced the story behind the recent death of a girl from a remote part of North eastern China who became an escort in Singapore.  An escort is a title that covers a range of activities; anything from a plutonic social escort to a prostitute.

Whatever her motivation or vice, this young lady was found drowned in swimming pool of an expatriate and the Coroner's Court has still decide on the cause of death.  Her family, who are poor peasant farmers, were devastated by the news and sold up their farm to get enough money to come to Singapore and collect her mortal remains and return them to China.

Their story touched the hearts of Singaporeans who rallied around and provided free funeral services as well as collecting a large sum of money to give to the family.  The outcome being that the donations have enabled the parents to buy back their farm.  Even though they have lost a daughter, at least they now have the wherewithal to provide for themselves through the land.

Such acts of generosity are not uncommon in Singapore.
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Friday, 21 May 2010

Today's Print

Wednesday, 19 May 2010

Three Stone Jars

Singapore FoodI neglected to mention in early postings that some of the best food options in Singapore can be found in the least expected places.

When I worked at the British Council in Napier Road we were extremely lucky to have one of the best lunch cafes in the city within the complex.

The Three Stone Jars serves very good western and asian fusion food. in a cafe surrounding and the prices are much more reasonable than the nearby Tanglin Mall.

Peter the proprietor is an effervescent personality and not only does he serve good food, he also has an excellent taste in music (at least to my ears) with golden oldies from the sixties playing quietly in the background.

An example of their menu are the large chicken thighs (affectionately dubbed 'dinosaur legs' and imported from South America I believe?), mashed potato and two selections of vegetables for around $7.

I also enjoyed their beef rendang which is very distinctive with an acidic accent, unlike the normal creamy varieties one gets throughout Singapore. The recipe is more of an Indonesian style.

The only word of advice I have is to try and avoid the 11am and 1 pm rushes, when the students and staff have a hasty meal before classes and the queues are long.
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Monday, 17 May 2010

The Quest For Pop Immortality

This is a band called The Quests who had their first hit, an instrumental called 'Shanty' in 1964.  As with many bands at that time they started playing cover versions of The Shadows (video below).

The name of the band was derived from the school magazine of the Queenstown Secondary Technical School, located in a part of Singapore where I now live.

They were joined for a while by an Ex-British serviceman Keith Locke on lead vocals.  I still enjoy their musicianship although the songs are nearly fifty years old.

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Sunday, 16 May 2010

I Wanna Eat Economy Rice

Let me take you on a little and typical domestic journey in Singapore.

Each non working day we dine locally which to all intents and purposes means the Economy Rice stall (pictured), opposite the Queenstown MRT.

We exit from the rear gate of Queens condo past the ever slumbering security guard (so I use their title advisedly).  The standard of security personnel seems to have dramatically declined in the thee plus years we have been here.

Then there are two choices; wait for the "green man" and cross over Commonwealth Avenue or hug the shade on our side of the road and go past the Methodist Church, crossing over the dual road via the MRT overbridge.

Today we took the latter.  The sounds of the Beatles "I Wanna Hold Your Hand" was booming out of a small set of speakers above the Queens Bubble Tea shop.  It was a somewhat incongruous juxstaposition of sensory delights.

Bubble Tea originated in Taiwan in the 1980's according to some sources.  The introduction of  tapioca pearls into a cold tea product was all that it took to start an Asia-wide fad.

Past the new lift access for the elderly and disabled which had been a work in progress for months and never seems to get completed and then it is downward on the concrete steps, noting that this earlier version MRT station only has an ascending escalator and never a descending one.

On the right is a view of a building that seems to be morphing into some sort of education establishment but it is decorated in a perfectly hideous combination of colours.

On the left is the queue of walking wounded and the infirmed waiting for the free shuttle bus to Alexandra Hospital.

We pass the first food court and head for the second where the Economy Rice is of better quality and more generous in their helpings.

Shooing of the Mynahs and ever vigilant sparrows we select a couple of plastic stools placed under a slow beating fan.  The air is oppressive as the rains have still to come.

Dogs are know to mark their territories and there is a similar custom when reserving a table in a Singaporean food court.  Not that one cocks a leg; an umbrella or packet of tissues left in full view will suffice.

A plentiful dollop of rice and a 'meat and two veg" are to be had for a mere $2.80.  Replete, we retrace our footsteps stopping off for dessert at the Walls ice-cream cart.  A thick slice of Macadamia ice-cream between wafers (or two slices of bread which is a local custom) costs a further dollar.

I note that the Beatles CD is still playing up in the MRT interrupted only by the canned announcement for the station staff to "please mind the platform gap".

I am old enough to remember the original version of this song when it came out in 1962 (below).  What better way to finish a walk in the noon day sun.

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